Top 10!
1. Balenciaga
Nicolas Ghesquière swapped the robotic for the classic, reinterpreting Parisian chic via suits with draped peplum jackets and swagged satin "sari trousers." The result: a soft, feminine counterpoint to the season's prevailing androgynous mood.
see larger image ›2. Bottega Veneta
With buzzwords like "quiet luxury" suddenly spilling from the lips of the most flamboyant designers, Tomas Maier, the king of understatement, chose this moment to produce his most glamorous collection yet. Billowy goddess gowns were begging for a red carpet.
see larger image ›3. Donna Karan
A focused Karan went back to her roots, rethinking eighties uniform dressing for the oughties. Commanding jackets with bold shoulders marched down her runway with narrow, stretchy skirts. But she wasn't all business: A slip of skimmy, twisting silk jersey had the ease of a latter-day toga.
see larger image ›4. Dries Van Noten
In a season when many defaulted to the safety of black, Van Noten proved once again that he is fashion's master colorist. His deceptively simple, vaguely 1940's clothes came in the strange yet beautiful hues of a Francis Bacon painting.
see larger image ›5. Erdem
Reasons to party these days are few and far between, but among the best are Erdem Moralioglu's colorfully printed, brilliantly executed frocks. London's on fire with new talent, and he's one of the young designers blazing the way.
see larger image ›6. Givenchy
Riccardo Tisci worked both sides of Fall's romantic/rough divide in a collection that asserted his range. On the one hand, there were fierce warrior woman getups in feather- and goat-hair-embroidered black tulle, and on the other, a trio of the season's most decadently glamorous all-white gowns.
see larger image ›7. Haider Ackermann
With draping taking center stage, the underexposed Ackermann's effortlessly elegant bias-cut skirts, worn with second-skin leather jackets or Edwardian satin tail coats, proved he can stand with the biggest names in Paris. He has a deft hand for mannish tailoring, too.
see larger image ›8. Lanvin
More than ever, Alber Elbaz knows what women want: a timeless classic, but one that packs serious wow potential. That came courtesy of his signature internal drape and bias twists, not to mention a king's ransom of glinting crystal studs.
see larger image ›9. Marc Jacobs
Nobody did Fall's eighties trend better than Jacobs, who boogied his way through that decade at New York's long-gone, much-lamented nightclubs. His neon coats, bold-shouldered blazers, zip-up party dresses, and acid-wash high-waisted jeans are a guaranteed good time.
see larger image ›10. Prada
In a satisfying bit of fashion irony, the countryside inspired a city-smart Prada collection that helped define some key trends: forties-inflected skirtsuits, coat-dresses, and kinky over-the-knee boots. Leave it to Miuccia to add her own perverse twist to the season's discussion about sex.
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